Alpha-Hydroxy and Scrubs
By mati. Filed in Skincare |
Alpha-hydroxy acids and scrubs are both popular alternatives to dermabrasion and chemical peels. Alpha-Hydroxy acids work by dissolving the glue that holds the keratin cells on the surface of the skin together so you can get the dead skincells off. Dead skincells tends to make your face look a bit dull, and when you remove the top layer, the skin looks much fresher and younger. However, as with everything in life, it has to be done in moderation!
In our obsession to dig out younger looking skin, there is always the temptation to use our alpha-hydroxy acids more than we should. So, what happens when we use them too much? The skin can become sore, thin, dry and irritated, and not only that, it becomes way too sensitive to the sun as well. Recently, I read that the FDA had done tests on AHA’s, and they found that after using those acids for 3-4 weeks, the chances of sundamage from UV radiation increased 18%!!! They also found, however, that the sun sensitivity decreased as soon as they stopped using the product, so at least it is not irreversible.
So, how much is too much?
First of all, the concentration of acids should be less than 10% if you don’t want to damage your skin. Dermatologists use much stronger acids, but after one of their chemical peels, you have to stay out of the sun for at least 3 months, and you’ll most likely experience redness, swelling and irritation as well. Well, you may look a lot younger after you have had half of your skin removed, but it doesn’t sound healthy to me! I would prefer healthy skin with wrinkles any day!
Second, it shouldn’t be used too often. It takes the skin about 1-2 weeks to recover from the kind of AHA cream you would use at home, so it shouldn’t be used more than about once a week, or even twice a month, if your skin is sensitive. (And don’t forget using sunscreen afterwards!)
So, how can you tell when it is time to exfoliate again?
If you can rub a finger down your cheek, and feel skincells rolling under your fingertips, it is time to get rid of some more cells. If nothing happens, you don’t need to do it.
The dead skincells actually do have a purpose, even though they look a bit dull. They protect your deeper layers of skin from the environment, so when you keep removing them, you are also reducing your skin barrier, and therefore also your protection against the elements.
So, basically, there is a fine line between exfoliating too much, and not exfoliating at all.
Scrubs are another way to remove dead skincells. However, there are way too many scrubs on the market that are so rough that they literally scratch up and damage the surface layer on your skin. So, stay away from scrubs with pummace, ground up apricot seeds and other very rough substances. Instead, look for masks and scrubs that contain gentle scrubbing agents like oatmeal, corn flour and jojoba beads.
In addition, you have to use your intuition, use your “finger on the cheek” test and if your skin becomes red, dry or sensitive, stop using the product. Moderation is the key.
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