When you are very young and your skin is plump and healthy, you might be able to get away with only one product. My 9 year old daughter uses a light hydrating lotion on her face after taking a bath. It keeps her skin soft, and also protects from the cold in the winter. However, this kind of skin care regimen is no good when the skin starts showing signs of time. At that point, you need more than just one cream or lotion because you can’t cover all your skin needs in one layer.

The more mature your skin gets, the more different ingredients it needs to stay elastic and healthy. The first area to be affected by age, hormones, temperature and UV radiation is the area around the eyes. Aging in this area starts to show up as early as in the early twenties. The skin around the eyes have no sweat glands, so it tends to simply dry up since it has no protective barrier to hold moisture in.

Moisture is the most important thing you can put around the eyes. It can be in the form of a toner or spritz, or a light moisturizing cream or serum. In addition, you also need an oily or buttery barrier to keep the moisture from evaporating. These products should be layered, with the moisturizing agents first, to allow them to penetrate the skin, and an emollient barrier on top that keeps the skin soft and prevents the moisture you just added from evaporating. Other ingredients that should be considered around the eyes are anti-oxidants that prevent formation of wrinkles from UV damage. So, really, what you want in your facial cream or eye cream is moisture (water, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, etc.), a buttery barrier (coconut, shea, jojoba etc), and anti-oxidants (green tea, acai berries, vitamin E or C, etc), and ideally, these ingredients should be layered and not just contained in a single cream.

So why can’t we just put all of these ingredients into one product? You can, but it won’t give you the maximum benefit of the ingredients. The reason is, some of these ingredients are made to penetrate the skin and moisturize the deeper layers, and other ingredients are supposed to sit on top of the skin to soften and protect.

A lot of times, you’ll hear people say that if you have dry or mature skin, you need a rich cream. Not so! If you put a rich cream on dry or mature skin, it will simply sit on the surface without increasing the moisture levels in the skin itself, and if you want to improve the way your skin looks, you really need to do both.

Therefore, the best solution is to use products that can be layered, where each product has a specific purpose. For example, if your skin is normal or oily, you probably won’t need to add a barrier to the skin. A light moisturizer serum is all you need after cleansing and toning. If, however, you have dry or mature skin, you must add moisture first of all, and it has to be as a thin serum so that it can bathe your skincells in moisture and penetrate into the deeper layers. Then, after allowing your serum to sink in, you add your rich, buttery barrier cream to soften the skin and keep the moisture in.

This is why, using one product on your face is basically useless, unless we are teenagers, or even pre-teens. What we need are products that can be layered, depending on what each individual skin type needs. This can vary with age, hormones, temperature, and UV exposure.
CLICK HERE to see suggestions for how to layer skin care products depending on skin type.

Right now I need to ask your opinion about bottle and jar sizes. When buying a new skincare product, what do you prefer to buy first:
Sample sizes
Travel sizes
or Full sizes
Are there any of these sizes you would not usually buy?
I would very much appreciate a small comment on this issue, since it would help me decide what I should offer for sale.
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What is Retin-A?
Retin-A is a medication used to treat acne and unwanted lines and wrinkles on the skin. It is supposed to be one of the only products that can effectively make a difference when it comes to removal of wrinkles, but the question is, at what price?

How does it work?
It actually does a few nasty things to your skin – like suppress your sebum production (oil production) as well as the production of keratin cells (surface cells on the skin), and this is why it is a very popular method for treating acne.

Acne is caused by the effect of hormones on the hair follicles and sebaceous glands (oil producing glands). When the glands produce too much oil, the follicles can be plugged through a combination of sticky oil and lose skincells, and if you add bacterias to that, you end up with acne. So the idea is to use Retin-A to suppress the production of sebum as well as the production of keratin cells, because that will solve two of the problems that cause acne in one go. In addition, it was also found that Retin-A stimulates the cell turnover in the walls of the hair follicles, which will basically push out the sebum and skincells that are clogging the opening, and when that happens, your acne will magically disappear.

Sounds great, doesn’t it? But something is very wrong with this kind of thinking – this is what I call allopathic thinking. For anyone who doesn’t know, I am a homeopathic practitioner by trade, so tomorrow, I will share with you the homeopathic view on the problem of acne.
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Many of the people who make natural skincare products, often use olive oil based balms with lots of essential oils in them. They avoid putting water in the balm because as soon as you introduce water, you also need to use a preservative. So they avoid the water and put lots of essential oils into the mixture instead. There is a possibility that essential oils can have a preservative effect if you use them in a high enough concentration, but the problem with that is that they can be highly irritating to the skin.

A friend of mine is selling a totally natural product called “Simply Divine Botanicals.” She was giving her friends free facials to introduce the product line, and I went over to try it. The cleanser didn’t do much on my skin at all, and we had to use it twice. The toner looked like an old cup of coffee, and the moisturizer reminded me of clear shoe polish. I rubbed it all in, and my face looked nice and shiny when I left with a smell of roses strong enough to sink a ship.

Before I got to the post office, which was about 10 minutes away, there was an odd, prickling, hot sensation on my forehead. I picked up the mail and went straight home and looked in the mirror. I looked like I had the measles!!! My whole forehead had broken out in a nasty rash, and my cheeks were starting, too. I dug out my own cleanser and started cleaning it off. The oiliness was so heavy I had to use my own cleanser twice, just to get it off. By then my face was red and hot, and I felt like an idiot.

Anyway, natural or not, that was NOT what I call a moisturizer. To be truly moisturizing, a moisturizer should have enough water that it becomes a serum type liquid, even for dry skin! Remember, thick heavy oils are not moisturizers and can leave the underlying skin still dry!

The most important humectant, besides water, is hyaluronic acid, which is a natural ingredient that can hold its own weight in water 1000 times, and also supposedly stimulates collagen production. Other humectants can be honey, glycerin and lecithin. Lecithin also has the ability to increase the permeability of the skin so the moisturizer can penetrate deeper. This is great, if your moisturizer contains only natural products, but not so great if it contains harmful chemicals. So read the labels!

A moisturizer also needs to leave a membrane that can keep the moisture from evaporating. This can be in the form of oils, butters and waxes. If your skin is oily or has a tendency to break out, the oils need to be non-comedogenic so it doesn’t clog the pores. So, it doesn’t have to be oil-free. The so called “oil-free” moisturizers are usually so full of chemicals I wouldn’t touch them with a firepoker. It just has to be made with light oils, like olive squalane, jojoba and soybean oil.

So, the three things to look for in your moisturizer is, water, hyaluronic acid, other humectants, and some good natural oils. If it has lecithin, it should be soy based. And, stay away from moisturizers with too many essential oils in them, or you could end up like I did. So, even when it comes to natural moisturizers, we have to watch out and still read the labels.
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We are a culture of youth worshippers and we haven’t yet discovered any kind of beauty that is deeper than skin-deep. Whatever happened to worshipping your elders for their wisdom? Perhaps the wisdom is all gone, and now, only stupidity remains?

Anyway, I can understand that women want smooth skin – and I am no different. Inside, I’m as young as I always was, and outside, the skin shows that I have been around the block quite a few times…

So, what can we do about this? Are those anti-aging creams any good? When I took out my reading glasses and started looking at the label ingredients, here is what I found in the best selling brands:

Olay Regenerist @ $27.99/1.7oz
Contains glycerin, panthenol, hyoluronate, green tea, aloe vera, collagen, elastin, allantoin, B3, propyl and methyl parabens (high hazard) and phenoxyethanol. At least it contains not only chemicals, but also a few vitamins, humectants, anti-oxidants and even collagen for anyone who thinks it will make a difference. If you don’t mind carcinogenic parabens, it is not a bad product.

Loreal Revitalift @ $19.99/17oz
Contains algae extract, shea butter, sunflower seed oil, chemicals and methylparaben (high hazard preservative). I don’t see a lot of goodness in this one – and personally, I wouldn’t bother buying it. I’ll rather wait until they come up with a more natural alternative…

Garnier Nutritionist Regenerating Moisturizer
This cream contains only a handful of recognizable substances, like mica, glycerin and tomato extract. The rest are just chemicals. 12 of those are rated moderate hazard in the cosmetic database, and three of them are rated high hazard. I didn’t see anything in the ingredients that indicate any regenerating or anti-aging ingredients, so in my opinion, this one is just a waste of money.

In addition to these best sellers, I also found a brand that, based on the ingredients, seems to be a better product than all of the ones mentioned above. It is called:

ProVectin Plus by Skin Essentials, advanced wrinkle remover @ $29.99/6oz (great value).
It contains 3 different peptides for the people who believe in those –
Palmitoyl oligopeptide
palmitoyl tetra peptide
acetyl hexa peptide
In addition, it also contains hyaluronic acid, which is a humectant that can hold its own weight in water 1000 times and is supposed to help stimulate collagen production. Although it does contain carcinogenic parabens, propylene glycol (anti-freeze) and a long list of other unpronounceable chemicals, it also contains cocoa butter, mango butter, aloe, vitamin E/A/C (anti-oxidants), cucumber extract, green tea, grapeseed, peach, seaweed, lemon, calendula and gingko. So, if I were to buy one of these three, the ProVectin Plus offers more in terms of anti-aging ingredients, hydration, natural ingredients as well as value (amount of cream for the money), so this would be my number one anti-aging semi-natural product.
They also offer an eye cream for @ $19.99/1.3 oz – again good value for the money, since that is the price that is normally charged for ½ oz of eye cream.

I also found a paraben free anti-aging skincare line by Keri Glassman called Skin Appetit, nutria-collagen daily moisturizer. It is a skincare line made by a nutritionist who claims to use superfood nutrients in her products. And, yes, it is true, her products contain things like chamomile, comfrey, honey, blueberry extract, aloe vera, cocoa extract and walnut seed extract, but on the first half of her label there are only chemicals listed, like alkyl benzoate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, propylene glycol, PEG 100 stearate, dimethicone etc. Because these ingredients are at the beginning of the label, the cream base is obviously made from these components, and then the superfoods and herbs are added in small amounts to the end product. Although this is a common thing to do, it is not very nice to the consumer! It also contains acrylates, crosspolymers, phenoxyethanol and fragrance. Even though some of these chemicals are rated green by the cosmetic database, they are still chemicals that shouldn’t be in a so called natural skin cream made by a nutritionist. She is using her title as a nutritionist to give people the impression that her products are basically edible, which is an extremely misleading perception! According to the cosmetic database, this particular skin cream contains 4 high hazard ingredients, seven moderate hazard ones, and the rest green. For a skincare line that is made by a nutritionist, I am certainly not impressed! I expect more from someone who knows better!!!
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After thinking about what she said, I bet this is a very common perception that many women have, and this is actually why the cosmetic database started exposing the truth of what the ingredients actually are in many of the products that we find in every super market and pharmacy.

However, yesterday, I took a trip to our local Walgeens to find out if anything new is happening in the makeup industry. I was actually surprised to find that things are slowly changing for the better, and that some of the big companies are actually listening and starting to create more health friendly products, which is good for us consumers! Over the next few days, I’ll write a few posts about it and tell you who is listening to the consumers, and who is not. The first company I looked at was:

CoverGirl
Here, I found huge, eye catching mascara tubes in bright colors with enormous brushes. They still contain parabens, but they also contain some natural waxes, like carnauba. In addition, they have started using just one paraben instead of many (just propyl paraben – moderate hazard, not as bad as methyl paraben), and combining it with phenoxyethanol (a moderate hazard preservative). The price range $5.00-8.00. This shows that they are starting to cut down on their worst ingredients and looking for healthier alternatives. I’ll take it as a good sign!

Other new things: Long lasting lip gloss, $8.00-10.00
Mineral powders: True blend minerals, True blend micro-minerals and minerals pressed powder. They still contain Titanium Dioxide though, which is a hazard to breathe in. Titanium dioxide is safe to use in creams, but not in powders, so I wouldn’t buy these!

Also new: “CoverGirl & Olay simply ageless foundation” that won’t settle in the fine lines, @ $15.99. Obviously, there is some kind of connection now between CoverGirl and Olay. Very interesting!

My Perception:
It is nice to see some natural ingredients in the formulas, even though CoverGirl still has a long way to go. But, at least it is a good beginning.

Olay
This company is far from natural, even though they would like people to THINK that they are a natural company! According to the cosmetic database, Olay uses 9 high hazard chemicals in their product lines, and numerous moderate hazard chemicals, so until they start producing more skin and health friendly products, I’m not giving them any of my money! I was, however, able to find 3 products that are rated green by the cosmetics database. These are:
Olay daily UV moisturizer SPF 30, for regular and sensitive skin, both rated 2, and Olay Vitamins Ester-C Collagen Support, rated 1. Out of 290 products, those are the only ones rated green so far, which basically means that they are harmless or low hazard products. So, even though it is a good beginning, it is definitely not impressive yet.

More about what the makeup industry is doing tomorrow…
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My criteria were very strict: I wanted a product without parabens, preferably totally ”green,” but I am willing to go to the lower end of the moderate zone if I have to. It has to cover both UVA and UVB rays. UVB rays are the ones that burn you, but they have now found that UVA rays are harmful, too. Although the UVA rays are responsible for giving you a tan, they penetrate the skin deeper than the UVB rays, and can therefore create more damage through oxidation, which in plain English means signs of aging! Therefore, a good sunscreen should cover both.

And, I am not willing to endorse any product that uses nano particles, either, even if they are supposed to protect very well against sundamage. I just don’t trust that the nano particles aren’t going to create some kind of havoc in my system since they are tiny enough to get into absolutely anywhere. I have heard that in nano particle form, even non-toxic and harmless substances can become toxic and dangerous. So, no nano particles for me, thanks!!!

However, the problem with natural sunscreens that contain mainly titanium oxide and zinc oxide, is that they are often thick and oily, and they leave a white film on the skin, which to me is very unattractive. Besides, you can’t possibly put makeup on top of that! The alternative is basically a compromise – a little bit of minerals and a little bit of chemicals.

So, naturally, my list became very short. Here it is:
Zinc Only
Soleo/Wyland Organic Chemical Free Sunscreen SPF 30+ – rated green
Contains 22.3% zinc, water resistant
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
All their sunscreens are rated green, contain natural ingredients.
Badger Sunscreen SPF 30 – rated green
Contains 20.5% zinc, water resistant
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
Feedback: thick, tacky, leaves white color, too oily for makeup base, contains too many essential oils, hard to rub in, contains natural ingredients.
Marie Veronique Organics SPF 30 – rated green
Contains 20% zinc
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Doesn’t use micronized zinc. Feedbacks states that the cream is thick and colors the skin slightly yellow, but that it works great.
All their sunscreens are rated green. Contain natural ingredients.

Titanium Dioxide only
California Baby Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 – rated green
Contains 18% micronized titanium dioxide, water resistant
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
Feedback: Goes on white, then turns somewhat clear with rubbing, too oily to use under makeup, all their products are green. Contains mostly natural ingredients.

Zinc + Titanium
Mexitan Sunscreen Lotion SPF50
Contains 22.5% zinc + titanium dioxide 6%, water resistant
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
Feedback: Better than badger and California Baby, long lasting, long wearing, sweat proof, doesn’t go on white, although some people say it goes on white, and that if you rub it in too much, it flakes off -contains natural ingredients.
Tropical sands SPF50 sunscreen lotion – rated green
Contains 22.5% zinc, 6% titanium
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
Contains all natural ingredients. Made by Mexitan!
Purple Prairie Botanicals Sun Stick SPF30 – rated green
Contains 10% zinc, 10% titanium
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Both their sun products are rated green. Contains all natural ingredients.
Tess Sun in your Face SPF30, oil free sunscreen – rated green
Contains 8.4% zinc, titanium 7.4%
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Contains mostly chemicals.
Goddess Garden Kid’s Natural Sunscreen SPF 30 – rated green
Contains 6.4% zinc, 6% titanium
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Both their sun products are rated green. Contains mostly natural ingredients.
Tropical Sands SPF 30 sunscreen lotion – rated green
Contains 6.4% zinc, titanium 6%
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
This one offers moderate protection and contains really natural ingredients.
Both their sun products are rated green

Zinc + Chemicals
Estion Sunscreen with zinc, SPF 38 – rated green
Contains 7.5% zinc + chemicals, water resistant
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 0
Contains all chemicals, but no parabens.
Solar Sense Face Protection SPF45 – rated green
Contains 6.65% zinc + chemicals
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Both their sun products are rated green. Contain mostly chemicals.
Ole Henriksen Sun-light protection creme, SPF30 – rated green
Contains 6.1% zinc + chemicals
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Contains some chemicals and some natural ingredients, no parabens.
California Baby Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 – rated green
Contains 6.1% micronized zinc + chemicals
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Contains mostly natural ingredients.

Zinc + Titanium + Chemicals
Eucerin – rated 3 (yellow), which is at the bottom end of the moderate hazard spectrum
Contains micronized Zinc 6.1%, micronized Titanium 4.5% + chemicals
UVA hazard 0
UVB hazard 1
Feedback: not greasy or oily, works well, inexpensive, can be used under makeup, doesn’t contain parabens. Contains all chemicals.
Just Chemicals
Alba Botanica Sport Sunscreen SPF32 – green score 2
UVA hazard 1
UVB hazard 1
Uses all chemicals. This is the only sunscreen by Alba that is rated green. All the others are Yellow (moderate hazard with low SPF) or Red (high hazard). Contains chemicals and natural ingredients.

So, what should you choose? If you don’t mind chemicals, Estion seems to offer excellent protection. However, if you prefer natural ingredients, I would probably go with Tropical Sands or Mexitan. If you don’t mind a combination of chemicals and natural ingredients, Ole Henriksen might be worth trying, even though it will probably cost a small fortune. Good luck with your sunscreen buying, and please leave a comment if you find a favorite sunscreen that really works. I would love to know, what is your favorite sunscreen, and why do you like it? Please share with the rest of us!
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